Tuesday, 18 June 2013

By train and boat from Shymkent, Kazakhstan to Bacu, Azerbaijan


By train and boat from Shymkent, Kazakhstan to Bacu, Azerbaijan 
We had to be at Shymkent railway station to catch the train to Aqtou by 4.30 am. The train originated from Almaty so there were many people getting off as well as many people getting on.  We found our carriage, a first class soft sleeper, in which we were to spend the next fifty four hours travelling to Aqtou on the Caspian Sea and loaded ourselves, our gear and our bikes in. We had a comfortable two berth cabin with plenty of room to stow our bags and the bikes went in at the end of the carriage.  We were settled in very nicely when a railway man came and using sign language advised us that our bikes would have to go into the luggage compartment at the next major stop and that would be an extra 20,000 tenge, thank you very much.  When we booked the train we had asked about the bikes coming on the train with us and we were assured that was okay and there would be no extra charge so we argued our case strongly. After about two hours and after a bit of back and forth as well as a few phone calls the railway man agreed to leave the bikes where they were and there would be no extra charge.   It was a long trip and we had taken food with us but we were able to buy some from people who hopped on at one station and got off at the next.  Hot water was available and we used this to make drinks.  When we stopped at major stations there were also people selling food and drinks.  Kazakhstan is a large country, the ninth largest in the world, and a lot of it is desert which is the reason we are taking a train for this part of it.  We used our time to look at maps and define our route through Turkey, we read , looked at the scenery and enjoyed the experience.  The land scape flying by was desolate flat plains, dust blowing in the wind and the only houses appeared to be for railway staff who man the stations and maintain the track.  Rail is used to move goods from one side of the country to the other, particularly oil and we pass many goods trains. Other passengers are interested in our maps and our bikes but no one speaks English and we have limited conversations with them.  Just out of Turkistan we saw the remains of an old silk road civilization which normally we would have had to hire a four wheel drive to see, we passed close by to what used to be the Aral Sea and later, large sandstones cliffs eroded by the wind, but for the rest of the time it was desert and camels.
After we arrived in Aqtou station we had a windy 16 klm ride into the city. Aqtou was a seaside resort for mainly Russian tourists until oil was discovered in the Caspian Sea and now it is a booming oil town providing employment to local and overseas people.   The boats which sail from here are known to be unreliable and we have heard of people waiting twelve days for a berth so we were keen to find the shipping office before we did anything else as we only have five days left on our visas.  We found the address given in the Lonely Planet easily enough but the office had moved and none of the locals could help us find it.  We decided to ride the eight kilometers to the docks and see what information we could find.    We were in luck. There was a ship sailing tonight at 8 o’clock, but we had to book at the office we could not find in Aqtou and it was 5 o’clock.  A young German man, Cornelius,(who had been waiting a week for the boat) offered to go with us in a taxi to show us where it was, the office would remain open until we got there.  It was about 50 metres from where we had been standing a few hours before asking locals if they knew where to find it.  We purchased our tickets, bought some food for the trip as this was really a truck ferry which takes some passengers not a comfortable passenger ferry, and hurried back to the docks.  We need not have worried, we sat in the waiting room with others until we were cleared through customs at 3.00 am, boarded and waited until 7.pm the following evening before we left the dock.   Conditions on the boat were not very good, we shared accommodation with the truckies whose vehicles were loaded on board, everything needed a good soak in White King, but we had a smooth crossing and good company.  We had been on the train for two and a half days and then the boat for two days, we were glad to get on to dry land and looking forward to some nice food and bed that doesn’t move. Customs staff came on board and cleared us and we wheeled the bikes off into Azerbaijan.

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