We have arrived in Perth

10^th December

Hyden to Perth

The end of our Australian leg having ridden 3,926 ks

 There was thunder,lightning and rain all night at Hyden.   Next morning we woke to find we were surrounded by water, the rotunda an island.   Pat, one of the ladies from the opp shop arrived with a cup of tea and the news that the roads were flooded and rising rapidly, she was going to Corrigin and suggested that we take up her offer of a ride through the floodway or we might be delayed at Hyden for up to a week.  Pat is 71 years old and real trooper,  Mike went with her to get her trailer and we loaded the bikes and our gear on to it.  Through pouring rain and flooded roads we drove to Corrigin where Pat left us to go to her meeting.  We packed the bikes ready to find the local campsite when the rain stopped and the sun came out – just like Melbourne weather.    We spoke to a man who had just driven from Quairiding who assured us the roads ahead were clear of water so we headed off to ride the 68ks there.  The road was off the main route to Perth so there was very little traffic and no trucks.  Again we passed through wheat fields with many birds, the wheat provided them with plenty of food.  There were lots of large hills, one with a lovely 5 ks downhill, no need to peddle . 

The township of Quariding was a nice surprise.  A neat place with a variety of shops.  We know now we are close to Perth.  The campsite was friendly, people sat around talking and had cuppas together.  We learnt that the Hyden road was closed because of flooding and we were glad that Pat had given us such good advice and assistance.

The next day we rode to York, an historic tourist town where we spent the day sightseeing.

Our final day of our Australian leg of our trip saw us out of the wheat belt into lovely countryside covered with tall gums before we came upon small towns where we bought cold drinks and lunch which was a novelty for us. As we joined the main road into Perth we stopped to have a drink at our last roadhouse before coping with traffic, a thing we have not had to do for a long time.   There is a long downhill ride into Perth with lots of fast traffic, Heather got off and walked on the steep parts as it was just too scary to ride after travelling on outback roads for so long.    We finally arrived at the Perth caravan and it was hard to believe that we had arrived and that the next time we would ride our bikes would be in Asia.   It was hot so after booking in and having our photos taken we jumped into the pool to cool off and begin a couple of weeks of holiday while we prepared for the overseas part of our trip, like getting injections and servicing the bikes.   While we were in Perth we took the ferry to Freemantle and visited Kings park which we loved.  We were also shown the sites and had a swim at Cottlesoe beach with Heather’s  cousin Jane and her husband Pete who we bumped into at the caravan park – neither of us knew the other was staying there.  Jane and Pete are working their way around Australia and have been away so far for two years.

We are feeling very homesick.  It is almost Christmas and we are missing the granchildren.

Wave Rock, Wheat, and Weather

6^th December, 2011

We spent three days in Esperance sightseeing, eating good food and enjoying the cooler weather.  Esperance is a very windy place and while the beach is beautiful sand blowing around prevented us from enjoying a walk along the sand.  There are many island just off the coast making the scenery very picturesque.  There was a good museum and Mike had to be dragged out at closing time.

As we rode out of Esperance we passed small hobby farms and then we were in the wheat bellt.  It was a hot day but we had the wind behind us which  helped us manage the large hills.  We got to Munglinup to find just a roadhouse and a community camp site, the money we paid for a shower went to the Royal Flying Doctor Service. 

The next  day was hot, in the 30’s and more large hills.  We passed through mainly wheat farms and some mines.  It is still very isolated here, no houses except for the occasional farm house set well back from the road.  When we got to Ravensthorpe it was after 12 oclock and as it was the weekend all the shops were shut, the pub of course was open, the only place to get a cold drink.    The pubs in these small towns are the hub of the community and people go for  drink and take their children with them.

The caravan park had a lot of permanents, people who have come to work in the mines or for the wheat harvest.

It was still hot  the next day but we are so close to Perth we were keen to push on to Lake  King 80 ks away. Many hills  but not big ones, just up and down like a roller coaster.  The road was very narrow and the surface was not good, the trucks were not considerate either, mining trucks we found do not give much room for anyone.  Just as we pulled into Lake King when we had the first puncture.  Heather’s bike picked up some copper wire from a retread on the road.   We bought some supplies from the general store when we were approached by Gaye who was supporting a group of bike riders from Esperance to Perth raising money for charity.  We were invited to join them at the local sports pavilion where they had been given accommodation for the night.   Mike fixed the puncture and it was good to have the company of other bike riders.

The next morning it was threatening to rain, but  the wind was behind us and we had turned off the main road to a minor road and saw very little traffic all day.  Lots  of hills except for the last 10kg.  We rode 122ks to Hyden, visiting Wave Rock just outside of Hyden along the way.  Just as we arrived in the town the heavens opened.  Heavy rain, thunder and lightning had us sheltering under the shop awnings. The ladies in the opp shop offered us a cuppa which we gladly accepted but the power went off.  We were told we should have stayed at Wave Rock to camp as the next camp site was 16 ks away, this left us in a dilemma  as there was too much lightning to consider riding anywhere.  In the end we bought something for dinner and set up our tent in a rotunda in the town park.

The end of the Nullarbor

28th November.

Fraser Range to Norseman – the end of the Nullarbor.    We have ridden 3,300 ks since we left home.

We had a great day riding the last stretch of the Nullarbor, tail wind and few hills, so we flew along the remaining 105 ks to Norseman, the end of the Nullarbor.   It was hard to believe we had done it.  After a little jig in the street we headed to the pub to celebrate.   We had been looking forward to being back in civilization so Noresman was  bit of a disappointment.  A typical mining town, fibro houses and unkempt gardens.  The greatest find was the supermarket where we could purchase some food.   It was a pity all the people along the way who told us we were mad were not here to see us ride in.

Our next challenge was to do the remaining 1,000 ks to Perth.   We left Norseman battling very strong head winds. It was a terrible day to be riding.  The scenery had not changed much, we could have still been on the Nullarbor until we got near Salmon Gums where wheat farms appeared,  Salmon Gums is a tiny little place and the caravan park is run by the community volunteers.   Gerrard a cyclist from Germany also stayed here so we had quite a social night.

28th November.

Fraser Range to Norseman – the end of the Nullarbor.    We have ridden 3,300 ks since we left home.

We had a great day riding the last stretch of the Nullarbor, tail wind and few hills, so we flew along the remaining 105 ks to Norseman, the end of the Nullarbor.   It was hard to believe we had done it.  After a little jig in the street we headed to the pub to celebrate.   We had been looking forward to being back in civilization so Noresman was  bit of a disappointment.  A typical mining town, fibro houses and unkempt gardens.  The greatest find was the supermarket where we could purchase some food.   It was a pity all the people along the way who told us we were mad were not here to see us ride in.

Our next challenge was to do the remaining 1,000 ks to Perth.   We left Norseman battling very strong head winds. It was a terrible day to be riding.  The scenery had not changed much, we could have still been on the Nullarbor until we got near Salmon Gums where wheat farms appeared,  Salmon Gums is a tiny little place and the caravan park is run by the community volunteers.   Gerrard a cyclist from Germany also stayed here so we had quite a social night.

The last few days on the Nullarbor

27^th November.

Because we were at Madura for so long we got to know the locals.   Bill who works on a very large sheep station invited us to see the property, Mike is much better now and we will continue our journey tomorrow so we were very happy to accept his invitation. The property is at the top of the pass and looks down on the plain below which has Western Myral trees growing.  Bill took us to see  a sink hole.  The land here is limestone and if a crack allows rain water to seep in it can hollow out a large area under the surface like a cave – a sink hole.  This one was quite large and at the back there was another cavity which probably is very deep.  As we drove across the property we saw lots of kangeroos, so they are there we just haven’t been seeing them.  We also saw some cockatoos which Bill said were King George Cockatoos, they were white with a delicate pink on breast and wing.

We left Madura a little nervous of how Mike would cope but he was fine.  We rode 91 ks to Cockbiddy and it was great to be on the move again.  A lot of hills today and many of the myral trees which eventually petered out to grassland and low bushes.  We had little wind until the last 5 ks when we  struck a head wind.  At Cocklbiddy we met up with Paul a  UK cyclist going in the opposite direction  so over dinner we exchanged stories.

 At long last we had a clear night sky and the stars were brilliant.  The trip from Cocklebiddy to Caiguna was very quiet, not many birds for a change.  We have really enjoyed the birds.    Mike had an appointment with the Flying Doctor at Caiguna and of course after the good news that he did not have Meniers we were relieved.

Caiguna is the beginning of the 90 mile straight or 146.6 ks straight.  While the road is straight it is undulating and we really did not notice the difference, perhaps you would in a car. It was a hot day and a truckie named Mick stopped and gave us each  a can of cold soft drink which we were very happy to accept.  The drink we carry warms up as the day goes on so a cold drink is much appreciated.  The wind was behind us so we covered a lot of ks doing 131ks for the day.

A couple of bush camps and we were headed for Fraser Range.  After leaving Balladonia the scenery change considerably.  We were riding through the Fraser Range so lots of hills, mostly up as we climbed out of the plain and there were large flowering  gum trees.  There were also a few wild flowers.

The wind has changed and we had a head wind all the way to Fraser Range so we were glad to get there. Fraser Range is a sheep station which has accommodation and we were hoping to make it for Heather’s birthday which we did.    After the grotty road houses Fraser Range was like an oasis.   There was a thunder and lightning show that night, the first rain we had seen since Penong all those weeks ago.  It was so wet in the morning we stayed another night and went for  walk  across the property where we saw 30 – 40 kangeroos as well as adult emus with chicks.     This was the last night. we were to spend on the Nullarbor

Mike becomes ill

19^th November,2011

While we were bush camping between Mundrabilla and Madura Mike became ill.  We stayed there for two days hoping it would pass but while he improved a little he was in no state to ride.  A very nice couple Janet and Ken from Perth offered to take us to Madura so we accepted.  When we got to Madura the staff  there were very helpful, they rang the area nurse at Eucla who insisted that Mike be taken by ambulance to see her.  We left our bikes and gear at Madura roadhouse’s garage and went  by  and ambulance 200ks back to Eucla where Wendy and area nurse, she covers 1,500 kms , diagnosed Mike as having  Meniere’s, which causes vertigo, dizziness and nausea.  Wendy gave Mike a Stemetil injection and some tablets to take with him as well as ordering rest and plenty of fluids.  We stayed at Eucla for a night then got a lift back to Madura where we are resting and waiting for Mike to recover.

A week later.   Ross, the flying doctor saw Mike today when he flew into Caiguna for a clinic and has given him a clean bill of health, the vertigo will probably never recur

Birds

14^th November, 2011

We are now just over the Western Australian border at Eucla having ridden our greatest distance in one day, 128 ks, to get here. Fortunately the wind was behind us, the road was flat and the sky overcast which makes a big difference to our progress. Eucla is more than a road house, there is a community here and the camp site is the best we have stayed in since Ceduna.  We have had only scrubby scenery for some time now so today’s change of scenery was welcome. It was a very pleasant sight to see the ocean , the Southern Ocean, along the Great Australian Bight as we rode along.  Whales can be seen between June and September, but we are too late.  For about 40ks we had the arid land on our right and the sea to our left. There was an opportunity to go into viewing areas and there we saw the Bunda Cliffs.  The cliffs are magnificent craggy outcrops which line the shore along the coast.

 We had an enforced rest day at Eucla, Mike is working on some adjustments to his bike and I had a minor fall off the bike and have a sore leg, nothing serious and we should be on the road again tomorrow. In the meantime it is a lovely day, we have trees for shade and a sea view – we also have many field mice to keep us company, there is a plague.

Because of the time change at the border, we had to put our clock back 1 ¾ hours which means we get up 3:00am and set off at 4:30 a.m. at sunrise.  As we left Eucla we went through the pass, a road all day with the escarpment, which would have been originally the sea cliffs, on our right.  The wind was behind us and we had a flat road so we made good progress. There were flocks of budgerigars flying everywhere, unfortunately there were also many killed on the road, I am not exaggerating when I say hundreds.  The birds flew alongside us and one perched on Mike’s back as he rode along.  We stopped to have a snack and the birds landed on us and our bikes, we were amazed, these were wild birds and they were acting like tame house birds, they allowed us to hand feed them and to stroke them.  A ranger pulled up and was laughing, he said he had never seen anything like it.  The birds stayed with us for some time, still landing on us as we rode and stayed on our handlebar bags or shoulders for about 2 kms.  Most of the birds had left us by the time we got to Mundrabilla.  The 68 ks to Mundrabilla passed quickly and Mundrabilla roadhouse facilities were not too inviting.  We decided to make use of the roadhouse and have our main meal there and continue on and bush camp.  We were pleasantly surprised to see the menu offered had more than deep fried food.  It was here we saw emus for the first time on the trip, three in all.  We rode another 55ks and camped at one of the many roadside parking areas.  Because Eucla had a camp kitchen Mike was able to freeze all our water bottles so even at the end of the day we still had nice cold water.   It had been a great day of riding, we had covered a good many ks with easy riding and the birds were a bonus.  

Ceduna

3^rd November, 2011

We have been very fortunate for the last week as the wind has been with us, such a change from earlier in the trip and makes such a difference to the time and effort it takes to move along.  From Port Augusta we rode to Iron Knob, now a ghost town, but was the first place in Australia to mine iron ore.  No proper camping ground but a community run site where we stayed and the only other place operating but the pub, where we had dinner because there was nowhere to buy food.  The scenery was typical outback, low scrubby bushes and dry red paddocks.  It stayed this way until 20 kms out of Kimba when all of a suddenly there were wheat fields.  Kimba was a nice little town with proper shops and a large wheat silo which obviously keeps the town alive. The roads are much quieter, most people wave or toot and the dreaded road trains have been great, giving up plenty of room as they pass.  On our next leg to Windunna we met three cyclists going the other way, the first we had seen since Nelson about three weeks ago.  From Windurra we rode to Poochera, stopping at Minnipa for lunch. Minnipa is off the highway so we went into the town centre which consisted of a general store cum post office and you wonder how people survive living out there.  When we got to Poochera, same thing, turned off the highway to the town centre only to find a pub which is closed on a Monday, and it was Monday with a camping ground at the rear, a rather dismal place and no one to book us in or unlock the toilets and shower.  We decided to take a look at the local oval as on previous occasions we had been offered the local oval to camp on.  The sports ground was a magnificent, manicured oval with clean toilets and running water so we decided this was a better option to stay.  We had just set up tent when  a local pulled up to see what we were doing, he was president of the association and was happy for us to stay, but warned there was a meeting to be held that night.  About twenty cars turned up for the meeting. The next day we stopped for lunch at Wirralla, this time the town had a pub, a very nice and busy general store and a campsite, we had a very nice lunch and a chat with some locals, it was Melbourne Cup day and the pub were putting on a lunch and people dressed up as it they were going to the races.  We had to push on and we rode another 30 kms before stopping, it was another 60 kms to Ceduna so a bush camp had to be, we found a place off the road on the edge of a wheat field which did he job.  Next morning the wind was behind us a few roller coaster hills, a great day for riding and we were in Ceduna by noon.   Ceduna is a nice town by the sea with good shopping.  A rest day here, the last proper town until Norseman so we did some shopping, went to see the local wild life rescue where they had a white baby wombat and a cute baby kangaroo and a young emu..