Tuesday 6 November 2012

We are at home


At home
We have a lovely new grandson, Liam Michael Vaughan.
Heather’s shoulder injury was more serious than we thought, two ligaments are completely torn and because of the delay in getting proper treatment it is not possible to repair them by surgery so she is now having intense physio and hydrotherapy, this will take some time and now we do not expect to be back in Beijing until next March.  The hostel in Beijing have agreed to hold our luggage until then. This is most disappointing but we are making the most of the time here enjoying the grandchildren and our children.
 
 

Beijing


Beijing
Beijing was a very pleasant surprise.  There was very little pollution, the traffic was orderly compared to other cities in Asia. We used the Lonely Planet to find restaurants they recommended and we were looking forward to eating “normal” food but we were disappointed, the food was not very good and expensive so we went back to eating local food, we found a great place not far from the hostel where the food was good and the other patrons noisy and friendly, perhaps we have become a bit Asianised on our travels because we felt very comfortable eating there.  Beijing would have to have the most public toilets of any city in the world, all well maintained. We wondered if this was because we were in an older part of the city and many of the dwellings would not have their own toilets, not flushing ones anyway.  They looked  fairly new so perhaps they were built for the Olympic games and to stop people peeing in the street, which is not uncommon. This part of the city has no high rise, unlike other parts where the older areas have been demolished to make way for modern buildings, it has many alleyways, or hatongs where we found restaurants, people living behind old walls and small parks where people played badminton or sat in the sun.
Our first priority on arrival was to catch up on our washing and book a flight home because we are expecting a new grandchild to be born and we want to be there to welcome the newest member of our family into the world.  Our visas were due to expire on 16th and we cannot get a renewal, we have to leave the country and re enter so we have decided to go home now then return after the baby is born which will then give us another three months in China if we need it.
We walked to the Forbidden City on a very hot day.  There were thousands of people there. We hired an audio tour which explained in English what we were seeing, it was a great way for us to understand the history of the place, much better than going on a tour as we could go at our own pace.  The size of the place was amazing, housing many palaces where emporers, their wives and their concubines lived, only part of it is open to the public,with much more behind locked doors. Most of the area was paved and the buildings had Chinese style elaborate roofing depicting dragons. We walked back to the hostel though a park along a river and it was refreshing to be among trees and grass. We met up with Miles, an old friend of our son Mark, who lives permanently in China, his girlfriend Wei, and her parents.  We went to lunch with them in a local restaurant where the food was delicious.  It was great to see a familiar face and talk to an English speaking person, we asked lots of questions about things we had seen .
We booked a bus tour out to see the icon of China, The Great Wall.  We were advised by the hostel and Miles not to go to Bandalag, the part of the wall seen in most photographs, but to go further out, a three hour trip and we not disappointed – it was fantastic. We caught a chair lift up to mountain, then a short walk to the wall.  We were enthralled by this place, so old, so beautiful and full of history, 700 years old.  This part is still mainly original, parts have been maintained and in places it has crumbled.  The wall follows the mountain top so we climbed up and down steep steps, walked through the turrets and had a great day.  Because we were so high up the views were spectacular, it was a clear day and we could see over the mountains and the valleys, there were not very many people there so we were able to stop and look whenever we wanted to.  It was a four hour walk along the wall and back to catch the bus.
The Lama Temple was just a short walk from the hostel and we visited there one morning, very elaborate as these temples usually are and worth seeing. We were able to just amble around and take our time without any pressure.
Our time of departure was drawing near and we bought some bike boxes, at home the bike shop gives them to us, and Mike packed them ready for the flight.  The bikes had to be cleaned so they would pass through customs in Australia.  The hostel was allowing us to leave most of our luggage with them, to be picked up on our return, we were very happy about this as it made it a lot easier at the airport is we had less luggage. We took the bikes because they needed a bit of maintenance which Mike would do at home.  We packed our bags for storage and with help from Miles organized a taxi truxk to take us to the airport.
Before we left there was one more thing we wanted to see, the Summer Palace.  We caught the train, had to go through security before we could board the modern, clean carriage.  We managed to find our way, then a short walk to the Summer Palace, a place where the royal family used to holiday to escape the Beijing summer. The place was enormous with 3 large lakes. It was a hot day and the lake gave off a cool breeze as we walked through beautiful gardens with some trees 250 years old. There were many old ornate bridges and a covered walkway decorated in the elaborate Chinese style. Lots of
Chinese people there enjoying a day out but the grounds were so big it was not crowded. There were places here but we chose to spend time in the gardens and did not see them.
We are excited about seeing our family soon and looking forward to the impending birth, Heather’s shoulder is still giving her some bother and needs to be seen to but we are also sad to be breaking our trip, we still have a long way to go before we get to Europe.
 
 
 

The hostel we stayed in was in this hutong


The Lama temple


Beijing street


The Summer Palace


The Summer Palace


Summer Palace


The beautiful grounds at the Summer Palace


Luch with Miles and Wei


The Great Wall


The Great Wall


Many steep steps to climb


We had a great day


A tower at The Great Wall of China


Hutong in the old quarter of Beijing


Beijing - staff chanting allegiance to their company on the footpath


The Forbidden City


Forbidden City


The Forbidden City


Ornate roof in the Forbidden City


A palace in the Forbidden City


Crowds at Tiananmen Square


Baoding Biejing


Boading to Beijing
As we set off from Boading the sign posts read that it is only 123 klm to Beijing and we have decided to do over two short days. The weather is hot and there is a strong wind blowing which has cleared the air and blown away the awful pollution we have been riding through in recent times, the sky is blue with white clouds. We stopped for breakfast at a roadside stall but it was greasy, a disappointment as most of the food we get off the stalls is usually pretty good. Scenery was similar to yesterday, small towns and wheat fields.  We stopped at a garage to use the toilets and we were beseiged by three women who insisted on giving us lunch and cold drinks while Mike drew pictures for their children, we had trouble getting away but we needed to push on, the wind meant our progress was slow.   We often come across police checks and the police have always just waved us through but this time they stopped us and took our passports and we waited while they rang someone, then they let us through. 
The road was very busy and dusty until we turned off on to a newly made road with hardly any traffic on it, we could not understand why this lovely road was empty. Perhaps because it was a bypass and therefore longer.  We were in the outskirts of Beijing and we were refused accommodation at two hotels because we were foreigners, with the help of a very nice man who spoke English we were directed to a hotel which was “registered”, it was some distance away and we had to ask directions a few times, luckily the name of the hotel had been written in Chinese for us, we eventually found it and the people were very welcoming, asking questions about our trip and the manager came down and wanted to be photographed with us.  We were in the suburbs of Beijing, there were lots of people and lots of restaurants. We sat at a table out on the footpath and enjoyed a great meal of spicy noodles.
We were excited as we rode out the next day, after almost 10,000 klms we were amost to Beijing. Mike successfully navitaged us to the city. As we rode along wide clean streets we were surprised how orderly
The traffic was, cars and bikes stopped at red lights, the motor bikes rode in the rights lanes and there was very little smog. There were a lot of police and army everywhere as we approached Tiananmen Square, later we realized it was the anniversary of the uprising here and the government were probably being careful to ensure there were no protests, though the local people here are unaware of what happened all those years ago.  Tiananmen Square is the entrance to the Forbidden City and there were a lot of people, including some westerners, were heading to this icon of Chinese history.  It was strange for us to just melt into the crowd, no one was crowding around us or wanting to take our photo, we were invisible here and that was a welcome relief.  Security was tight, everyone had to present their bags to police to inspect as they entered, we were waved through for which we were grateful, we thought we may have to open all our panniers for them to be searched.  A kind man took our photo in front of the large Mao portrait hanging in the square then we headed for the hostel we had booked.
The hostel is in the old quarter of Beijing in a hatong (alley) within walking distance to shops and restaurants, we walked from Tiananmen Square and a couple of times Americans working here helped us find our way.  The hostel had a room where we could leave the bikes and the staff here, like the hostel in Guilin, were very helpful, they spoke English and were able to tell us where things were and how to get there. 
 
 
 
 

Mc Donalds - Mike tucks in


Tiananmen Square - We made it


Keeping up the fluids


A welcome sight - a cold drink stall


The woman who made us welcome


Almost there


Baoding - 134klms from Beijing


Tuesday 2 October 2012

A pagoda


Mike becomes a judge


An ancient monument


We had a great lunch in an old city


Cyclists from Shanghai


Plantations by the side of the road


Houmea to Baoding


Houmea to Baoding
We continued on good roads after Houmea, wide with tree plantations along the side all the way to Lingshi.  Like Houmea, we had some difficulty finding accommodation at Lingshi,  more than we had ever had before, but we eventually found a hotel, overpriced, but they could accommodate the bikes and this is always a priority.
The next morning we came across 9 cyclist from the Over 60s Cycling Club of Shanghai and we rode with them all day. They invited us to lunch at a restaurant in an ancient city where we saw buildings
dating back to the Yang Dynasty. The food was great, things are so easy when we are with Chinese people. Only one man spoke English, a retired professor from Shanghai University, so he translated for us all. They were on their way to Beijing but we were going a different way preferring to stay on the minor roads.  We had an enjoyable day in their company on a hot and windy day and were sad to say goodbye to them.
The pollution was awful as we rode to Qi’Yuan.  It had rained overnight and puddles were black sooty water, the towns we pass by were grimey with coal dust and depressing, sheep feeding the side of the road are black with the dust. Just as we approached Qi’Yuan we found a truckies stop so we booked in for the night and also enjoyed a lovely dinner, sweet and sour pork with stir fried vegetables and rice. People here were very friendly.  The next day we continued on the 180 highway and again found people very welcoming, when we stopped for a roadside breakfast the bank manager came out and filled our water bottles with boiled water and later when we stopped at a garage to buy an icecream and cold water the manager refused to take our money and took us to his office to show us photos of his new bike. We found the turn off to Shouyang which would take us off the busy highway to a lesser road but there were large hills and a head wind to conquer before we reached our destination.  It was late when we got in and once again we were assisted by two young men who worked at the bank and spoke very good English.  They helped us find accommodation and acted as our translators and negotiated a good price for us.
We had a great ride the next day to Yangquan, downhill most of the way through beautiful countryside so we were in early. Yangquan is a large, busy city with all the western takeaways available so we ate McDonalds for lunch, something we never do at home but it was nice to eat food we were familiar with and we had Pizza Hut for dinner.  We found a lovely small place to stay, immaculate with our own toilet but a communal shower.  When we went for a shower it was a big room with many showers, again immaculate and lots of hot streaming water but with benches where people we being rubbed down, not quite sure what was going on and no one spoke English so just had a quick shower and fled. While we were here we needed to buy a pen and went to Walmarts – the biggest, noisiest shop we had ever seen,
everything was sold here, food, clothes, electrical goods.
As we left Yangquan the road was very bad and trucks were queued up to get through, it was uphill for make matters worse.  Here we met four young men from South Korea, the first non Chinese riders we have seen in China, they had been on the road for only a week and all their gear was new and clean, they were missing their mum’s cooking already.  They were on their way to Tibet then taking a similar path to ours, hoping to reach England in 12 months.  There were many old trucks on the road all day, at times they would be about 80 to 120 lined up waiting for police checks, billowing out pollution.   After the long ascent we had a long descent and as we swept down the hill we could see over walls into old villages still being lived in, we had a great view of stone houses and cobblestone streets.
We left the hills and rode the next couple of days on fairly flat and good roads, the pollution was even worse than we had experienced before, at one stage all the cars had their lights on because it was like driving in the dusk, no sun could get through.  The scenery was not very interesting, small dusty towns and larger farms now, no small holdings, they look like viable commercial crops of wheat unlike the subsistence farming we had seen further south. We reached Baoding late in the day and found a very nice place to stay but before we could unpack the police arrived telling us that the hotel was not registered to take foreigners, he wanted us to stay at the large hotel nearby.  We explained to the policeman that it was too expensive and we would ride on further until we found something else. But he insisted and rang the hotel and bargained a cheaper price for us – he just wanted us sorted and out of his hair.  We found an outdoor restaurant and ate there, the evenings are lovely and warm and the staff were very friendly as we ate our chicken cooked on skewers over charcoal with salad.  The hotel was luxurious but as we left at 5.30 the next morning it seemed a waste and we would have preferred to stay in the small hotel which was very comfortable. Baoding is a large place, we were leaving the Chinese countryside behind and we were very close to Beijing.